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Stevens grad sets lofty goal
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As a child, the only obstacle Julie Smith did not climb was the refrigerator. Now, as an adult, it's Mount Everest.
Her mother, Donna Smith of Rapid City, remembers her daughter's fearlessness, which began at an early age.
"I came home one time to find her on top of the sewing machine. She was only 2 years old. That was her style. She was never afraid of anything."
Julie, a 1978 Stevens High School graduate, now lives in Gate, Wash., and works as a medical technologist at Providence Centralia Hospital in Centralia, Wash.
Her interest in climbing began at age 23, when she went hiking in Wyoming with two of her three brothers. Since then, she has climbed some of the highest peaks in the world — Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Mount Logan in the Yukon, Mount McKinley in Alaska and Aconcagua in Argentina — ranging from 19,340 to 20,300 feet high. Now, for the second time, she will attempt to climb the tallest peak in the world.
Julie attempted to climb Mount Everest, in the Himalayas of southern Asia, two years ago, but she had to turn back — only 1,500 feet short of the 29,035-foot peak — because a friend was not breathing well. Although he was a much bigger person than Julie, he was ingesting the same amount of oxygen but probably needed more, Julie said.
Although it was somewhat of a relief to turn around and retreat down the mountain, Julie was disappointed.
"When I got down there, I thought, ‘Why didn't I go for it?'"
At that time, Julie attempted to climb the north side of the mountain; this year, she will maker her attempt on the south side. Although the south side of the mountain is a more straightforward climb, it is more risky because of dangerous ice falls.
Climbing at an elevation of 29,035 invites a number of dangers, such as hypothermia. Every task is more difficult, including breathing and digesting food. There is a statistic attached to Mount Everest: One climber dies for every 10 who reach the summit. Julie tells her mother to "disregard" that statistic.
Julie understands the challenges exclusive to Mount Everest, known to people in Nepal as "Sagarmatha," or goddess of the sky.
"At normal elevations, I can climb at about 1,500 feet per hour. That would be below 10,000 feet. I'll slow down to 1,000 feet per hour up to 16,000 or 17,000 feet," Julie said. "On Everest, I would only expect to make 250 feet per hour on summit day."
During her past time on Everest, Smith attempted to carry all of her own gear. This time, Julie hired a Sherpa (climbing guide) named Thukten, whom she met during her first attempt.
"I know he can make it up, so now's it up to me," she said.
Julie will leave her home March 13 and trek three 18,000-feet peaks in the Himalayan foothills, where she will become accustomed to the climate. In early April, she and Thukten will spend an entire month hauling tents, sleeping bags and other camping gear to five camp sites. They hope to attempt the summit in early May; the monsoon season begins in June and produces a lot of snowfall on Mount Everest.
The north and south sides of the mountain differ in another area: the cost of the adventure. When Julie climbed the north side of Everest two years ago, it cost $16,000. Her trek on the south side of the mountain will cost about $34,000.
For starters, the Chinese government charges about $1,000 for a climbing permit but Nepal charges about $10,000. Two years ago in China, Julie was able to drive to the base camp of the mountain, at 17,000 feet. On the north side of the mountain, it is more costly to move gear to the base camp because it trails from 7,000 feet to 17,000 feet. Julie hired people to assist her with that feat, along with cooks and porters for the base camp.
As part of her training, Julie weight trains, goes mountain biking and, most of all, climbs constantly. She travels to Camp Muir on Mount Rainier in Washington, an elevation of 10,000 feet, and she climbs Mount Hood, at 11,000 feet, in Oregon.
"A short day is 2,500 feet on trails close by, and I'll take a 50 pound pack with me," she said.
Although mountain climbing is definitely a passion for Julie, it does not define her. In fact, she said she feels that mountain climbing is "selfish" and that she should spend more time helping others. There are other facets to her life, she said.
"God and friends are more important," Julie said.
Donna understands her daughter's passion for climbing.
"It's in her blood. She's got to do it because it's there. She figures, the Lord put them there, so why not use them?"


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