In the food world, David Pszanka is a craftsman.

According to Jacques Pepin, a top-tier chef, "When you become a good cook, you become a good craftsman first."

The fact that it takes more than ingredients and technique to cook a good meal is something Pszanka innately knew while growing up in his large household.

The executive chef at Hamilton's Patio and Grill comes from a large family with seven brothers and two sisters. His first days working in the kitchen began at home at age 12.

"I was always in the kitchen helping my mom. She did all the cooking for our family and a lot of my influences are from my mom," he said.

His mother wasn't too fussy about measuring ingredients. "She more or less eyeballed everything and made sure that it tasted good," he said. "That's what I like to do. Take a basic recipe and make it my own."

Pszanka has especially strong ties with his family.

He and his wife, Karen, moved from Colorado to join his brother, Mike, and sister-in-law, Mickie, in the family restaurant at 7887 Sheridan Lake Road.

Since September, he has created Hamilton's menu featuring a variety of mouth-watering selections of rich, delicious foods. Fan return to the restaurant time after time for its daily specials: Monday, half-priced wine; Tuesday, prime rib; Wednesday, half-priced kids' meals; Thursday, all-you-can-eat ribs; and Friday, walleye fish fry.

Last week, he fired up the convection oven to begin his famous prime rib. He likes searing the meat before roasting it: "Just to seal the meat up before I start it in the slow roast in the oven. It keeps all of the flavor inside," he said.

His wife said her husband is a back-to-basics chef.

"People love his chicken club sandwich. Has he told you about his meat loaf? We can't keep his meat loaf in the house," she said.

A vegetarian, Karen Pszanka said that when he cooks family meals, he includes dishes that she can eat as well as those for their two children, Lindsay, 15, and Morgan, 12.

"He's very diverse," she said.

While growing up, Pszanka was responsible for cooking two meals a week for his parents and siblings, something that he enjoyed doing. Cooking for the big family also took away the intimidation factor of cooking for a crowd, something that he benefited from later as a chef.

He began his restaurant career as a teenager waiting tables, but was intrigued by the line cooks in the kitchens and what they were able to produce. Pszanka eventually went to college to major in business. "But I decided it wasn't for me," he said.

What he knew of business and his interest in food took him to a new direction.

"It led to going from the front of the house to the back of the house," he said of leaving service staff to go behind the kitchen doors.

He met his wife in a restaurant where they both worked. Once married and with her encouragement, he embarked on new path.

At age 22, he enrolled in a two-year program at Johnson and Wales University in Denver, graduating magna cum laude in culinary arts. "It suited me," he said.

He soon was working as chef at the Rock Bottom Restaurant and Boulder Chop House, where it was normal to serve 600 lunches in 1-1/2 hours. With 18 years of experience, he brought his family from Denver to the Black Hills.

Along with the restaurant, he keeps his own kitchen busy by inviting guests over for meals.

"We do entertain a lot and I do enjoy cooking for everyone else," he said.

Lindsay declared that the upcoming holiday is a family favorite.

"Thanksgiving is the best," she said.

Her dad agreed, having made holiday dinners for 35 to 40 people.

"Typically, we have 25 people over, but we're talking family reunion," he said.

He doesn't see it as a time to hyperventilate, but a good time starting with great food.

"I'm never stressed when I'm in the kitchen," he said.

Contact Jomay Steen at 394-8418 or jomay.steen@rapidcityjournal.com.